In Style, July 2003

When it comes to sunbathing hazards, many of us are still in denial. We all know that UV rays can cause wrinkles and skin cancer, but a recent American Academy of Dermatology poll shows that 81 percent of us think that we look better with a tan and that sunscreens are an ideal way to tan without burning. News flash: There will be 91,900 new melanoma cases this year, and everyone is at risk. “Unless you’re a hermit, the sun will find you,” says N.Y.C. dermatologist Amy Lewis. No need to hide: We’ve got all you need to keep a sunny outlook and not get burned.

SELECTING A SUNSCREEN Seven important points to consider

1 formulas

LOTION Lotions are popular, making up 77 percent of sunscreen purchases. Their light texture and absorbability are pluses for daily use. Many dermatologists prefer lotions because they provide even coverage.

Lancome Soleil sunscreen lotion SPF 25, $ 26; at department stores or lancome.com

GEL Most gels are oil-free, won’t clog pores, and don’t leave a sticky residue, making them ideal for oily or acne-prone skin. They’re easily absorbed but need to be reapplied frequently because they wipe off quickly.

Peter Thomas Roth Oil-Free Hydrating sunscreen gel SPF 20, $ 25; 800-787-7546

SPRAY Sprays are perfect for protecting hard-to-reach places like the back and shoulders, as well as the scalp (spritz sunscreen along your hairline or into a part). Apply just enough to leave a light sheen on the skin.

Kiehl’s Vital Sun Protection Face & Body spray SPF 15, $ 17.50; 800-543-4571

WIPE Wipes deliver messless application with a simple swipe. Many brands come in resealable, pocket-size pouches. One drawback: Some users find it hard to tell if they have applied enough sunscreen.

Dermalogica Full Spectrum wipes SPF 15, $ 20; 800-831-5150 or dermalogica.com

STICK Since sticks provide a thicker, more precise application, they are best suited for burn-prone areas such as eyelids, lips, ears and nose. Pocket-size packaging makes them easily portable, so you can reapply often.

Hawaiian Tropic Ozone oil-free sunblock stick SPF 50+, $ 4.59; at drugstores

MOUSSE Mousses are easily absorbed and work well as sport sunscreens because they have a dry finish that doesn’t leave a slick residue on hands or skin. But shake well before applying–ingredients tend to settle.

Sea & Ski All Day sunscreen foam SPF 15, $ 10; drugstores or 888-373-2754 for stores

2 about face

ACNE-PRONE Oil-free gels, sprays and water-based lotions are less likely to clog pores. But apply a toner first so that the sunscreen doesn’t slide off your skin.

Bain de Soleil Oil-Free Faces SPF 30, $ 9; at drugstores

DRY Use a creamy lotion that contains moisturizers like vitamin E and dimethicone. Dry skin is prone to wrinkles, so for additional protection look for antioxidants.

Clarins Ultra Protection SPF 30, $ 24.50; at dept. stores

SENSITIVE Choose fragrance-free formulas with physical blocks like titanium dioxide. These are less irritating than such chemical blocks as Parsol 1789.

Physicians Formula Sun Shield SPF 25, $ 9; 800-227-0333

3 spf

SPF, or sun protection factor, is a measure of how long a product allows you to stay in the sun without getting burned. For instance, if you’d usually burn within 15 minutes, an SPF of 4 multiplies your allowable exposure time by four, to 60 minutes. It’s unlikely that you’ll get the full protection listed, however, because SPF is calculated in a lab without factoring in environmental influences and inadequate application. Dermatologists recommend using SPF 15 year-round (SPF 30 if you’re fair or you spend a lot of time in direct sunlight).

4 uva & uvb

UVB, or “burning,” rays are the primary cause of skin cancer and are most intense in summer. UVA, or “aging,” rays pose a risk in any season and penetrate deeper into the skin, causing wrinkles. Dermatologists now believe that they also cause cancer. To protect skin against both UVA and UVB rays, look for a broad-spectrum sunscreen like those from Coppertone or Origins, which contain physical blocks like titanium dioxide and/or chemical sunscreens like oxybenzone. Many derms recommend Anthelios, a European product with mexoryl, a physical blocker that has been shown to filter the maximum amount of UVA light.

Clockwise, from top left: Coppertone Spectra 3 SPF 50, $ 11; at drugstores. Origins Sunshine State SPF 20, $ 22.50; 800-674-4467. Anthelios XL Total Block SPF 60+, $ 42; 888-219-2888 or zitomer.com.

5 antioxidants

When ultraviolet rays hit skin, they create unstable oxygen molecules called free radicals. These molecules wreak havoc on healthy cells by stealing some of their electrons, which may lead to premature aging and cancer. The good news: Researchers now believe topically applied antioxidants such as vitamins C and E, green tea and grapeseed extract may help neutralize free radicals. To protect skin, use a sunscreen with antioxidants, like Caudalie, or an antioxidant serum, like Skinceuticals Primacy C+E, before applying regular sunscreen.

From left: Caudalie Vinosun Anti-Aging Suncare SPF 25, $ 55; 866-826-1615. Skinceuticals Primacy C+E, $ 115; 800-811-1660.

6 water-resistant vs. waterproof

Waterproof products are designed to protect your skin for up to 80 minutes in water; water-resistant products for up to 40. “Both of these sunscreens are stickier, so they don’t come off that easily,” says New York City dermatologist Gary Brauner. However, some of the product will inevitably wash off in the water; you’ll lose even more if you dry off with a towel. To be on the safe side, Brauner advises, reapply after swimming.

Bull Frog Waterpro body gel SPF 36, $ 9; at drugstores

7 sport

Sport sunscreens are typically non-oily gels, mousses or sprays that dry quickly without leaving residue, permitting grease-free grips. Most sport formulas are also designed to be waterproof and/or sweat-resistant; however, since some still run into the eyes, many dermatologists recommend using a non-stinging children’s formula on your face when you know you will be sweating profusely.

Banana Boat Active Sport spray SPF 25, $ 9; drugstores

BOX STORY:

4% is the projected increase in the number of cases of melanoma in the United States from 2002 to 2003.

80% of a person’s sun damage occurs before the age of 18.

YOU ARE FIVE TIMES MORE LIKELY to burn if you don’t reapply sunscreen after two and a half hours.

Sources: American Cancer Society and American Academy of Dermatology

BOX STORY:

APPLICATION 101

THE AVERAGE PERSON applies only half the amount of sunscreen required to safeguard skin, which gives only about a third of the protection stated on the product label. It takes the equivalent of a shot glass of sunscreen to cover your entire body from head to toe. Apply to dry skin half an hour before sun exposure. “Sunscreen needs time to be absorbed in order to work,” explains Lewis. Put it on while nude, paying special attention to often-missed areas like the ears, the base of the neck, the tops of feet, and the backs of knees. Reapply every two hours or immediately after swimming, no matter what the SPF is. For your face, use a non-comedogenic sunscreen to curtail breakouts. And don’t rely only on moisturizers and foundations with an SPF, especially if you’re going to be out in the direct sun. Using wrinkle fighters that contain retinol or glycolic acid? They may make skin photosensitive, so switch to kinetin-based products.

BOX STORY:

SUN-CARE MYTHS

MYTH Wearing a sunscreen allows you to sunbathe safely all day.

TRUTH No sunscreen blocks UV rays completely, so don’t be lulled into thinking that you can bake away. “There is no such thing as a safe tan,” says Brauner. “A tan is a sign that your skin has been damaged.” Instead, to get a healthy faux glow, wear a tinted sunscreen that has self-tanner.

MYTH You should buy a product with the highest SPF possible.

TRUTH Ultra-high SPFs offer only a little more protection than SPF 15, because SPF protection does not increase proportionately, says N.Y.C. dermatologist Dennis Gross. SPF 15 blocks out 93 percent of UVB rays, but SPF 30 bumps up that number only to 97 percent. “There’s nothing wrong with using high SPF products, but they tend to be heavier and greasier,” says Gross. It’s important to find a product with at least SPF 15 that you like so you’ll use enough of it every day.

MYTH Applying sunscreen to hair will protect it from sun damage.

TRUTH Hair is dead, so sunscreen can’t “protect” it. Instead, try a leave-in conditioner like Rene Furterer No-Rinse Nourishing Sun Balm (see p. 249), which can counteract the dehydrating and color-stripping effects of the sun. And before swimming, soak hair with fresh water–less salt or chlorine will be absorbed.

MYTH Darker skin doesn’t burn.

TRUTH Darker skin has a built-in SPF between 4 and 15. However, that doesn’t mean it won’t burn–it just takes longer. People with darker skin may also be prone to develop aggressive melanoma on non-pigmented areas like palms and soles.

BOX STORY:

soothing a sunburn

SO YOU WOUND UP WITH A BURN INSTEAD OF A TAN? Take aspirin every four hours to lessen inflammation, and apply a soothing lotion with aloe or menthol to cool down skin. Gels with lidocaine, a topical anesthetic, can ease pain, but use them with care as they may cause an allergic reaction. To inhibit free-radical damage, apply a cream that contains antioxidants, which can also reduce some immediate redness, says Los Angeles dermatologist Mark Rubin.

Bayer Original Strength aspirin, $ 6.49 for 100 tablets; drugstores. Hawaiian Tropic Cool Aloe I.C.E., $ 5.29; drugstores.